Before leaving, a long conversation with 58-year-old Dieudonné, who confesses to me to make severe malaria crises. He cleaned the car from top to bottom, adorable!




I’m talking to him about Artemisia. Bernard, the guard gets involved. They check on the Internet …

I try to be convincing



Keep your serious Bernard!




Emmanuel, the gardener comes to give his opinion …




I summarize: Dieudonné prefers that I give him a handful of pens rather than cure his palu!

Anne-Marie, there is a job!

Then the road to the Ghanaian border, dotted with world-renowned petrol stations



And other less funny signs …




Arrived at Po, I fork to go to see the royal court of Tiebele.

But you have to deserve it …




Original panels



“When it rains we close the fence to prevent the trucks spoil the way”

Tiébélé, a village with some 60 hamlets, inhabited by the Kassana ethnic group, who came from Chad in the 14th century.




The architecture of the royal court has been preserved since the 16th century.



It is women who, from mother to daughter, transmit to themselves the symbolism proper to this animist ethnic group.



The chief’s court of honor, in particular



The walls are first polished, then coated with a mixture of cow dung and laterite





Basalt is used for black and kaolin for white.

Every figure has significance.

The sex cache for men



The boa, symbol of the woman. Most of these families keep one at home and once a year, they take it out for the boa party, to whom they make offerings.




The turtle, the lucky charm of children born in the chief’s court




The lizard, symbol of architects …



The drum, which serves to convey the messages of the chief




The cane, to remind young people that they must watch over their father



The shield, to protect oneself from enemies



And finally the god Faa, god of harvests.




The chef is not allowed to drink outside the village. He is therefore preparing his drink, based on fermented millet, on site in this brewery.



The boxes are cleverly furnished. Note the wall inside, to prevent the enemy can shoot arrows. “He is obliged to pass the head, and there, it can be beheaded easily”




The interior is just as surprising




Under the calabashes, we pile the millet




And we carefully keep the provisions



The sacrificial altar is made up of drums. Notice on the last drum the dried blood of the chicken sacrificed the same morning:



The attic with millet




In 2019, it gives an unreal impression.

Yes, the Kassana ethnic group lives like that today.




It’s Arnaud, a real well of science, who gave me all this information.

He is in front of the sacred tumulus.




Almost all the boxes are inhabited




Tiébélé …



From Tiébélé, two solutions: go through Ghana, pay $ 150 and be safe or join Bittou, where a Spanish priest and four customs officers were recently murdered.

If I were a jihadist, I would not do it twice in one place. But I am not a jihadist and it is only a purely intellectual reasoning, I agree.

Nevertheless I try. I tell myself that we must arrive at 17 hours at the most.

I ask my way to a military barrage. I arrive a little fast … and I find myself put in play by a soldier, Kalashnikov in the hand and finger on the trigger. I do not do much.

They are on the teeth and it feels. 10 minutes of palaver will be required. Search the vehicle, control papers, I have the right to the total. The chef tells me it’s my fault, that I scared them. He is right.

I go through tracks, bumpy, bumpy, chaotic … in a semi desert landscape



I had to make a detour, I had to cross a river. I am offered a canoe.

I accept but I ask them for a dugout for the car. They are still laughing!

But the river has good sides




I finally arrive on the famous national 6, classified in the red zone by the Quai d’Orsay.

Honestly, I’m in my little shoes.

To relax, I chat with workers who load the cotton (we are in full harvest)




They step on it to compact it




Par 35 in the shade



Spurred by the chef, with glasses of comic!




But their kindness allows me to take pictures (and some pens too)

It’s beautiful, cotton!




I’m not unhappy to see this sign. It is 16:59 and I am intact !!


Formalities dispatched in 58 minutes for the two customs gathered in the same building. Smart, right?

This was done under the auspices of WAMU (West African Monetary Union).

So I am getting 2000 Francs CFA to finance this idea. Clever, no?


I arrive in Dapaong emptied: dust + track + stress = a good night!


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